Lacquered Salmon, Pinapple-soy Reduction

2 cups unsweetened pineapple juice
4 teaspoons Japanese shoyu or tamari (see Note)
4 6 1/2-ounce thick Salmon steaks

1. Put pineapple juice in a small nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil. Lower heat to medium and cook until juice is reduced to 1 cup. Transfer to a small bowl and let cool.
2. Mix shoyu with reduced pineapple juice.
3. Place salmon in a shallow casserole. Pour pineapple-soy mixture over fish. Refrigerate and marinate for 2 hours, turning after the first hour.
4. Heat a large nonstick skillet or 2 smaller nonstick skillets until hot. Sear fish for 3 minutes on each side or until cooked through. Be careful not to overcook.
5. Meanwhile, place remaining pineapple-shoyu mixture in a small saucepan and cook over medium-low heat until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Using a pastry brush, glaze top of salmon with a little of the reduced marinade and remove salmon from the pan. Serve each portion with some of the remaining marinade. Serve immediately.

Note: Traditional Japanese soy sauce, or shoyu, is made from fermented soy beans, wheat, and salt, and has a highly complex flavor. Commercial brands-made, usually, with hydrolyzed vegetable protein, salt, flavorings, and caramel flavor-are not good substitutes. Tamari, usually made without wheat, is a bit heavier, but quite acceptable.